Diet guide for domestic dogs and cats
by Tom Lonsdale MRCVS
Go to www.rawmeatybones.com or action group for more excellent information from Tom Lonsdale
Dingoes and feral cats keep themselves healthy by eating whole carcasses of prey animals. Ideally we should feed our pets in the same manner. Until a dependable source of whole carcasses becomes available, pet owners need a satisfactory alternative. The following recommendations, based on raw meaty bones, have been adopted by thousands of pet owners with excellent results.
The diet is easy to follow and cheap, and pets enjoy it. It’s good for ferrets too.
· Fresh water constantly available.
· Raw meaty bones (or carcasses if available) should form the bulk of the diet.
· Table scraps both cooked and raw (grate or liquidise vegetables, discard cooked bones).
Puppies and kittens
From about three weeks of age puppies and kittens start to take an interest in what their mother is eating. By six weeks of age they can eat chicken carcasses, rabbits and fish.
During the brief interval between three and six weeks of age it is advisable to mince chicken carcasses or similar for the young animals. The meat and bone should be minced together. This is akin to the part-digested food regurgitated by some wild carnivore mothers. Large litters will need more supplementary feeding than small litters.
Between four and six months of age puppies and kittens cut their permanent teeth and grow rapidly. At this time they need a plentiful supply of carcasses or raw meaty bones of suitable size. Puppies and kittens tend not to overeat natural food. Food can be continuously available.
Natural foods suitable for pet carnivores
Raw meaty bones
· Chicken and turkey carcasses, after the meat has been removed for human consumption, are suitable for dogs and cats.
· Poultry by-products include: heads, feet, necks and wings.
· Whole fish and fish heads.
· Goat, sheep, calf, deer and kangaroo carcasses can be sawn into large pieces of meat and bone.
· Other by-products include: pigs’ trotters, pigs’ heads, sheep heads, brisket, tail bones, rib bones.
Whole carcasses
Rats, mice, rabbits, fish, chickens, quail, hens.
Offal
Liver, lungs, trachea, hearts, omasums (stomach of ruminants), tripe.
Quality — Quantity — Frequency
Healthy animals living and breeding in the wild depend on the correct quality of food in the right quantity at a correct frequency. They thereby gain an appropriate nutrient intake plus the correct amount of teeth cleaning — animals, unlike humans, ‘brush’ and ‘floss’ as they eat.
Quality
Low-fat game animals and fish and birds provide the best source of food for pet carnivores. If using meat from farm animals (cattle, sheep and pigs) avoid excessive fat, or bones that are too large to be eaten. Dogs are more likely to break their teeth when eating large knuckle bones and bones sawn lengthwise than if eating meat and bone together. Raw food for cats should always be fresh. Dogs can consume ‘ripe’ food and will sometimes bury bones for later consumption.
Quantity
Establishing the quantity to feed pets is more an art than a science. Parents, when feeding a human family, manage this task without the aid of food consumption charts. You can achieve the same good results for your pet by paying attention to activity levels, appetite and body condition. High activity and big appetite indicate a need for increased food, and vice versa.
Body condition depends on a number of factors. The overall body shape — is it athletic or rotund — and the lustre of the hair coat provide clues. Use your finger tips to assess the elasticity of the skin. Does it have an elastic feel and move readily over the muscles? Do the muscles feel well toned? And how much coverage of the ribs do you detect? This is the best place to check whether your pet is too thin or too fat. By comparing your own rib cage with that of your pet you can obtain a good idea of body condition — both your own and that of your pet.
An approximate food consumption guide, based on raw meaty bones, for the average pet cat or dog is 15 to 20 percent of body weight in one week or 2 to 3 percent per day. On that basis a 25 kilo dog requires up to five kilos of carcasses or raw meaty bones weekly. Cats weighing five kilos require about one kilo of chicken necks or similar each week. Table scraps should be fed as an extra component of the diet. Please note that these figures are only a guide and relate to adult pets in a domestic environment.
Pregnant or lactating females and growing puppies and kittens may need much more food than adult animals of similar body weight.
Wherever possible, feed the meat and bone ration in one large piece requiring much ripping, tearing and gnawing. This makes for contented pets with clean teeth.
Frequency
Wild carnivores feed at irregular intervals. In a domestic setting, regularity works best and accordingly I suggest that you feed adult dogs and cats once daily. If you live in a hot climate I would recommend that you feed pets in the evening to avoid attracting flies. I suggest that on one or two days each week your pets be fasted — just like animals in the wild.
On occasions you may run out of natural food. Don’t be tempted to buy artificial food, fast your pets and stock up with natural food the next day. Puppies, kittens or sick and underweight animals should not be fasted (unless on veterinary advice).
Table scraps
Wild carnivores eat small amounts of omnivore food, part-digested in liquid form, when they eat the intestines of their prey. Our table scraps, and some fruit and vegetable peelings, are omnivore food which has not been ingested. Providing scraps do not form too great a proportion of the diet they appear to do no harm and may do some good. I advise an upper limit of one-third scraps for dogs and rather less for cats. Liquidising scraps, both cooked and raw, in the kitchen mixer may help to increase their digestibility.
Things to avoid
• Excessive meat off the bone — not balanced.
• Excessive vegetables — not balanced.
• Small pieces of bone — can be swallowed whole and get stuck.
• Cooked bones — get stuck.
• Mineral and vitamin additives — create imbalance.
• Processed food — leads to dental and other diseases.
• Excessive starchy food — associated with bloat.
• Onions and chocolate — toxic to pets.
• Fruit stones (pits) and corn cobs — get stuck.
• Milk — associated with diarrhoea. Animals drink it whether thirsty or not and consequently get fat. Milk sludge sticks to teeth and gums.
Take care
· Old dogs and cats addicted to a processed diet may experience initial difficulty when changed on to a natural diet.
· Pets with misshapen jaws and dental disease may experience difficulties with a natural diet.
· Create variety. Any nutrients fed to excess can be harmful.
· Liver is an excellent foodstuff but should not be fed more than once weekly.
· Other offal, e.g. ox stomachs, should not exceed 50 percent of the diet.
· Whole fish are an excellent source of food for carnivores, but avoid feeding one species of fish constantly. Some species, e.g. carp, contain an enzyme which destroys thiamine (vitamin B1).
· There are no prizes for the fattest dog on the block, nor for the fastest. Feed pets for a lifetime of health. Prevention is better than cure.
Miscellaneous tips
· Domestic dogs and cats are carnivores. Feeding them the appropriate carnivore diet represents the single most important contribution to their welfare.
· Establish early contact with a dependable supplier of foodstuffs for pet carnivores.
· Buy food in bulk in order to avoid shortages.
· Package the daily rations separately for ease of feeding.
· Refrigerated storage space, preferably a freezer, is essential.
· Raw meaty bones can be fed frozen just like ice cream. Some pets eat the frozen article, others wait for it to thaw.
· Small carcasses, for example rats, mice and small birds, can be fed frozen and complete with entrails. Larger carcasses should have the entrails removed before freezing.
· Take care that pets do not fight over their food.
· Protect children by ensuring that they do not disturb feeding pets.
· Feeding bowls are unnecessary — the food will be dragged across the floor — so feed pets outside by preference, or on an easily cleaned floor.
· Ferrets are small carnivores which can be fed in the same way as cats.
For an expanded description of dietary requirements, including the potential hazards, please consult the book Raw Meaty Bones: Promote Health. Further information is available and the book may be ordered from www.rawmeatybones.com
IMPORTANT: Note that individual animals and circumstances may vary. You may need to discuss your pet’s needs with your veterinarian.
Diet Questions and Answers from Tom Lonsdale (www.rawmeatybones.com)
'The truth is rarely pure, and never simple' said Oscar Wilde. For this and a host of medico-ethical reasons pet health-care issues are best overseen by a local veterinarian who knows and understands the need for a biologically appropriate diet and healthy mouth. Owners who wish to seek a second opinion are advised to first discuss their concerns with their veterinarian. Veterinarians are generally pleased to assist in the arrangement of a second opinion which may lead to better health-care. Veterinarians, wishing to discuss medical or professional issues, are welcome to contact Tom. Please note that Tom is unable to correspond directly with pet owners.
Marrow bones
Q. Are marrow bones safe? My butcher saws them lengthwise so that my dog can get at the marrow.
A. There is little nutrient value in hard, dense marrow bones. And besides, chewing on the bones is likely to break teeth. This is especially so when the bones are sawn lengthwise - they act as a lever to split the upper carnassial tooth (three pointed tooth) which then becomes infected and painful.
Conventional wisdom:
Large bones are permissible/good for dogs - because they are too big and hard to be eaten.
Rebuttal:
Wolves, lions and other carnivores leave the long marrow bones. It's only hyenas that have the specialised jaws to deal with such bones.
Q. Is it OK to give my dog/cat cooked bones?
A. Lots of people get away with this risky activity. However, the nutrient value of cooked bones is much less than raw bones. Cooked bones are harder to digest and give rise to increased risk of obstruction or penetration of the bowel.
Q. How much should I feed my pet?
A. The answer depends on many factors. Please check out the 'Expanded diet guide'. Once you have a grasp of the factors listed you will likely feel confident about how much to feed your pet.
Q. How often should I feed my pet.
A. Adult dogs, cats and ferrets should be fed daily. Although a day or two of fasting each week mimics life in the wild and probably provides benefit - on condition that more food is fed on the other days of the week.
Conventional wisdom:
Dry food can be made permanently available.
Rebuttal:
Dry food is hazardous for dogs, cats and ferrets and should not (except in emergency) be fed.
Fruit
Q. My pet won't eat fruit. Does it matter?
A. Providing the rest of the diet closely mimics that in the wild the absence of fruit in the diet doesn’t matter.
Q. My pet dog/cat/ferret likes to eat lots of raw, ripe fruit. Is that OK?
A. Lots of raw fruit appears to do no harm and may be beneficial on condition that the rest of the diet is adequate.
Q. What's the best way to feed fruit?
A. Cooked or raw, straight from the plate or put through the kitchen mixer.
Vegetables
Q. My pet won't eat vegetables. Does it matter?
A. Providing the rest of the diet closely mimics that consumed in the wild the absence of vegetables in the diet does not matter.
Q. My pet dog/cat/ferret likes to eat lots of vegetables. Is that OK?
A. Lots of vegetables appears to do no harm and may be beneficial on condition that the rest of the diet is adequate.
Q. What's the best way to feed vegetables?
A. Cooked or raw, straight from the plate or pureed in the kitchen mixer.
Peelings
Q. Are fruit and vegetable peelings safe for my pet?
A. Yes, if that peel would be safe/nutritious for humans - for example potato, apple and pear peelings and the outer leaves of lettuce and cabbage. No, if that peel would be unsuitable as food for humans - for instance melon and banana peel and the outer leaves of artichokes. Grains
Q. Are grains good for my pet?
A. In moderation some cooked grains, for instance bread or porridge is OK for pets.
Q. Sometimes I have lots of left over bread or potatoes which I would like to feed to my pet.
A. Large quantities of bread or potatoes, fed at one time tend to be indigestible and thus give rise to intestinal complications, including bloat.
Conventional wisdom:
Dry 'complete and balanced' grain based diets are good for cats, dogs and ferrets.
Rebuttal:
Most of the diseases of modern pets can, either wholly or in part, be attributed to a grain based diet.
Bacteria
Q. I am worried that my pet may contract bacteria from eating raw meat.
A. Pets can contract bacteria from eating raw meat, especially chicken, but this tends to be a mild or rare occurrence.
Q. I am worried that my family may contract bacteria from our pet if it is fed raw food.
A. Pets can be a source of bacterial infection. However, infections in humans, when traceable, often show poultry meat, eggs, milk and processed foods (including restaurant meals) to be the source of infection.
Q. What should I do to limit the chance of me or my family contracting bacteria from our pet?
A. Maintain good hygiene.
Wash utensils thoroughly in hot soapy water.
Wash hands thoroughly after feeding your pet.
Discourage pets from licking hands and face of people, especially young children.
Pick up faecal deposits regularly.
Restrict/control flies.
Q. My pet developed diarrhoea and vomiting after being fed raw chicken from the grocery store. Could it be due to a bacterial infection?
A. Yes. Bacteria, for instance Salmonella, Campylobacter or E.coli, could be responsible. Your veterinarian can diagnose and treat these infections.
Worms
Q. Will feeding raw food to our pets increase the likelihood of my family catching worms from our pets?
A. There should be no increase in the likelihood of catching worms on condition that the food is purchased from a reputable outlet or is food passed as fit for human consumption.
Q. I heard that hydatid tapeworms can be a problem.
A. In some areas where hydatid tapeworms occur dogs fed on sheep/kangaroo/hare or other carcasses can become infected. Dogs infected with the tapeworm are a source of infection for humans and other animals. Consult your veterinarian if you have reason to believe that your dog may have eaten a carcass infected with hydatid tapeworm.
Q. My puppy passed spaghetti like worms. Could these have come from the raw meat I gave it?
A. These worms probably came from the puppy's mother, not from the diet. The eggs do pose a hazard for people. Accordingly puppies should be discouraged from licking people and faecal material should be disposed of safely.
Hazards
Q. My veterinarian says feeding raw food is hazardous and should not be practised.
A. Some risks, for instance hydatid tapeworm, and bacterial infection, do exist. However, a small risk should not be allowed to overshadow substantial benefits. Hydatid tapeworm and bacterial contamination are issues which affect the supply of human food. But there is no large controversy surrounding those issues. Why raise spurious or hypothetical issues? Despite the hazards, real or imaginary, many veterinary authorities and pet food companies recommend the feeding of raw meaty bones. Presumably they consider the benefits outweigh the hazards.
Choking
Q. I heard of a dog choking on a raw bone.
A. Choking is a hazard for people and pets. Cutting raw meaty bones or carcasses into small pieces increases the hazard. Pets attempt to swallow the pieces without adequate chewing. Be sure to feed carcasses whole and raw meaty bones in large pieces.
HIV AIDS
Q. My friend has HIV AIDS and I am concerned about the risks posed by my pet which is fed a natural diet.
A. Your doctor is the best person to advise regarding the relative risks posed by animals, regardless or whether they be fed a natural or processed diet.
Vitamins
Q. I want to do the best for my pet and wonder what vitamins you recommend.
A. The vitamins in natural food and table scraps are all that your pet requires. Feeding supplementary, synthetic vitamins can do harm.
Minerals
Q. I want to do the best for my pet and wonder what minerals you recommend.
A. The minerals in natural food and table scraps are all that your pet requires. Feeding supplementary minerals can do harm.
Antioxidants
Q. The antioxidants in plants are good for us. Can I give my pet some antioxidants?
A. If your pet receives a good diet based on carcasses and raw meaty bones then his antioxidant levels should be optimum. Best to steer clear of 'magical' supplements designed to 'improve on nature' because, after a long evolutionary history, nature really does know best.
Table scraps
Q. My diet is not very healthy. Surely the leftover scraps cannot be good for my pet.
A. Let's keep things in perspective. A few scraps from an 'unhealthy' human diet will not be as harmful as a diet of processed pet food. But nevertheless it might be a good idea to improve your own diet whilst ensuring that your pet receives whole carcasses or raw meaty bones as the staple diet.
Chicken
Q. I am concerned that raw chicken may contain harmful Salmonella and Campylobacter. Is this true?
A. Yes, a high proportion of raw chicken is contaminated, regardless of the source of the chicken. Chicken for human consumption needs to be well cooked. When preparing raw chicken, whether for human or pet consumption, practise good hygiene.
Beef
Q. Are beef bones good for my pet?
A. Meaty tail bones and ribs are good for dogs. Brisket bones, whilst easy to chew, lack meat and should not form the bulk of the diet.
Lamb
Q. I can get lamb necks. Are they good for my dog?
A. Yes, lamb necks make a good meal for middle and large sized dogs.
Diet
Q. I want to feed my pet a 'complete and balanced' diet.
A. People living on wartime rations were found to suffer from an incomplete and unbalanced diet, they lacked sufficient fresh fruit, vegetables, meat and milk - hence the preoccupation with the term 'complete and balanced'. Carnivore needs are different to human dietary needs. The term 'complete and balanced' has been imported into discussions on animal diets, but tends to be seriously misused - instead of food types the chemical constituents, carbohydrates, proteins, etc are emphasised. Best to treat the commercially inspired notion 'complete and balanced' with suspicion and ensure that your pet is fed according to nature's teaching - whole carcasses of raw meaty bones.
Teeth
Q. My dog does not much resemble a wolf. Why can it be expected to eat raw food?
A. Teeth and gums need to be kept clean and healthy. Eating raw food does that best. A dog's digestive system is ideally suited to a natural diet, regardless of the breed or appearance.
Bladder stones
Q. My dog suffers from bladder stones and cannot eat natural food.
A. Many factors affect the formation of bladder stones - most are poorly understood. But in broad terms dental, digestive and urinary tract health all have some bearing on the formation of stones. By keeping those systems healthy the chance of stones forming is thereby reduced. A natural diet is the chief contributor to dental, digestive and urinary tract good health. Some urinary tract stones, for instance urate calculi in Dalmatian dogs, are genetically determined, but nonetheless a healthy diet helps maintain overall good health.
Q. My cat suffers from bladder stones. What can be done?
A. Diet and dental health need to be optimum. It may be necessary to provide additional treatment. Please consult the articles FLUTD and Preventative dentistry.
Why change to a more natural diet?
Q. My previous pets all lived to a ripe old age on commercial food and my current pet dog and two cats seem fine. Why should I change their diet to more natural foodstuffs?
A. Are you sure that your previous pets were healthy? What were your vet bills like? Just how healthy are your current pets? Until we face the facts that our processed-food-fed-pets are not so healthy it is difficult to persuade ourselves that a natural diet could be better. First we must be honest with ourselves - fair treatment of our pets then follows, automatically.
Raw food suppliers
Q. Where can I get supplies of raw food for my pets?
A. First decide on a shopping list then decide who in your local area might either supply the items or advise where they can be found. The telephone book, your local butcher, corner store or pet shop may be a source of information. You may be a pioneer natural-food-feeder. If so, you could encourage would-be suppliers to visit this web site so that they may see what's entailed and the resultant benefits for all concerned.
Cost of food
Q. How much will the raw food cost?
A. Prices and availability vary from area to area. In Australia raw food costs about one-third the price of artificial foods. But food costs are not the only outlay. How much does it cost to visit the vet? How much does it cost in anguish, if not in money, to watch pets slowly get sick on an unnatural diet?
Dog poo
Q. My dog strains to pass his poo now that I feed him raw bones.
A. Yes, that's common and normal.
Q. My dog's poo turns white and hard after a couple of days in the sun.
A. Yes, that's to be expected because 'natural' dog poo is mostly powdered bone.
Q. My vet says my dog will become constipated if fed on raw bones.
A. Feed meaty raw bones in large pieces and he should be fine. Bones in small pieces, for instance chicken necks, or bones without much meat on them lead to firmer faeces and/or impaction of the bowel. (Chicken necks are good for small dogs and cat - but not large dogs, they tend to swallow chicken necks without sufficient prior chewing.)
Constipation
Q. How will I know if my dog/cat gets constipated?
A. If he or she strains without passing any poo then he/she may either be constipated or in the case of females may have a bladder irritation or blockage.
Q. What do I do it I suspect my pet is constipated?
A. Speak with your vet.
Bowel obstruction
Q. How will I know if my pet's bowel/digestive tract becomes obstructed?
A. Diagnosis is not always easy, even with the best equipment and training.
If you notice your pet to be off his food and listless then consult your vet. If your pet vomits, salivates profusely or seems in other ways to be 'unwell' then consult your vet.
Chocolate
Q. My dog likes chocolate. Is it safe to feed him a little now and then?
A. Chocolate in large quantities is toxic for pets. Best to avoid such treats. (Theobromine, a stimulant, is the major toxic ingredient.)
Onion
Q. I heard that onion should not be given to dogs.
A. That's right. Onions are toxic for dogs, whether cooked or raw. A few onions in left over stew or pizza topping should not create a major problem, but in general it's best to avoid giving onions to your dog.
Back to:
Diet
A to Z
by Tom Lonsdale MRCVS
Go to www.rawmeatybones.com or action group for more excellent information from Tom Lonsdale
Dingoes and feral cats keep themselves healthy by eating whole carcasses of prey animals. Ideally we should feed our pets in the same manner. Until a dependable source of whole carcasses becomes available, pet owners need a satisfactory alternative. The following recommendations, based on raw meaty bones, have been adopted by thousands of pet owners with excellent results.
The diet is easy to follow and cheap, and pets enjoy it. It’s good for ferrets too.
· Fresh water constantly available.
· Raw meaty bones (or carcasses if available) should form the bulk of the diet.
· Table scraps both cooked and raw (grate or liquidise vegetables, discard cooked bones).
Puppies and kittens
From about three weeks of age puppies and kittens start to take an interest in what their mother is eating. By six weeks of age they can eat chicken carcasses, rabbits and fish.
During the brief interval between three and six weeks of age it is advisable to mince chicken carcasses or similar for the young animals. The meat and bone should be minced together. This is akin to the part-digested food regurgitated by some wild carnivore mothers. Large litters will need more supplementary feeding than small litters.
Between four and six months of age puppies and kittens cut their permanent teeth and grow rapidly. At this time they need a plentiful supply of carcasses or raw meaty bones of suitable size. Puppies and kittens tend not to overeat natural food. Food can be continuously available.
Natural foods suitable for pet carnivores
Raw meaty bones
· Chicken and turkey carcasses, after the meat has been removed for human consumption, are suitable for dogs and cats.
· Poultry by-products include: heads, feet, necks and wings.
· Whole fish and fish heads.
· Goat, sheep, calf, deer and kangaroo carcasses can be sawn into large pieces of meat and bone.
· Other by-products include: pigs’ trotters, pigs’ heads, sheep heads, brisket, tail bones, rib bones.
Whole carcasses
Rats, mice, rabbits, fish, chickens, quail, hens.
Offal
Liver, lungs, trachea, hearts, omasums (stomach of ruminants), tripe.
Quality — Quantity — Frequency
Healthy animals living and breeding in the wild depend on the correct quality of food in the right quantity at a correct frequency. They thereby gain an appropriate nutrient intake plus the correct amount of teeth cleaning — animals, unlike humans, ‘brush’ and ‘floss’ as they eat.
Quality
Low-fat game animals and fish and birds provide the best source of food for pet carnivores. If using meat from farm animals (cattle, sheep and pigs) avoid excessive fat, or bones that are too large to be eaten. Dogs are more likely to break their teeth when eating large knuckle bones and bones sawn lengthwise than if eating meat and bone together. Raw food for cats should always be fresh. Dogs can consume ‘ripe’ food and will sometimes bury bones for later consumption.
Quantity
Establishing the quantity to feed pets is more an art than a science. Parents, when feeding a human family, manage this task without the aid of food consumption charts. You can achieve the same good results for your pet by paying attention to activity levels, appetite and body condition. High activity and big appetite indicate a need for increased food, and vice versa.
Body condition depends on a number of factors. The overall body shape — is it athletic or rotund — and the lustre of the hair coat provide clues. Use your finger tips to assess the elasticity of the skin. Does it have an elastic feel and move readily over the muscles? Do the muscles feel well toned? And how much coverage of the ribs do you detect? This is the best place to check whether your pet is too thin or too fat. By comparing your own rib cage with that of your pet you can obtain a good idea of body condition — both your own and that of your pet.
An approximate food consumption guide, based on raw meaty bones, for the average pet cat or dog is 15 to 20 percent of body weight in one week or 2 to 3 percent per day. On that basis a 25 kilo dog requires up to five kilos of carcasses or raw meaty bones weekly. Cats weighing five kilos require about one kilo of chicken necks or similar each week. Table scraps should be fed as an extra component of the diet. Please note that these figures are only a guide and relate to adult pets in a domestic environment.
Pregnant or lactating females and growing puppies and kittens may need much more food than adult animals of similar body weight.
Wherever possible, feed the meat and bone ration in one large piece requiring much ripping, tearing and gnawing. This makes for contented pets with clean teeth.
Frequency
Wild carnivores feed at irregular intervals. In a domestic setting, regularity works best and accordingly I suggest that you feed adult dogs and cats once daily. If you live in a hot climate I would recommend that you feed pets in the evening to avoid attracting flies. I suggest that on one or two days each week your pets be fasted — just like animals in the wild.
On occasions you may run out of natural food. Don’t be tempted to buy artificial food, fast your pets and stock up with natural food the next day. Puppies, kittens or sick and underweight animals should not be fasted (unless on veterinary advice).
Table scraps
Wild carnivores eat small amounts of omnivore food, part-digested in liquid form, when they eat the intestines of their prey. Our table scraps, and some fruit and vegetable peelings, are omnivore food which has not been ingested. Providing scraps do not form too great a proportion of the diet they appear to do no harm and may do some good. I advise an upper limit of one-third scraps for dogs and rather less for cats. Liquidising scraps, both cooked and raw, in the kitchen mixer may help to increase their digestibility.
Things to avoid
• Excessive meat off the bone — not balanced.
• Excessive vegetables — not balanced.
• Small pieces of bone — can be swallowed whole and get stuck.
• Cooked bones — get stuck.
• Mineral and vitamin additives — create imbalance.
• Processed food — leads to dental and other diseases.
• Excessive starchy food — associated with bloat.
• Onions and chocolate — toxic to pets.
• Fruit stones (pits) and corn cobs — get stuck.
• Milk — associated with diarrhoea. Animals drink it whether thirsty or not and consequently get fat. Milk sludge sticks to teeth and gums.
Take care
· Old dogs and cats addicted to a processed diet may experience initial difficulty when changed on to a natural diet.
· Pets with misshapen jaws and dental disease may experience difficulties with a natural diet.
· Create variety. Any nutrients fed to excess can be harmful.
· Liver is an excellent foodstuff but should not be fed more than once weekly.
· Other offal, e.g. ox stomachs, should not exceed 50 percent of the diet.
· Whole fish are an excellent source of food for carnivores, but avoid feeding one species of fish constantly. Some species, e.g. carp, contain an enzyme which destroys thiamine (vitamin B1).
· There are no prizes for the fattest dog on the block, nor for the fastest. Feed pets for a lifetime of health. Prevention is better than cure.
Miscellaneous tips
· Domestic dogs and cats are carnivores. Feeding them the appropriate carnivore diet represents the single most important contribution to their welfare.
· Establish early contact with a dependable supplier of foodstuffs for pet carnivores.
· Buy food in bulk in order to avoid shortages.
· Package the daily rations separately for ease of feeding.
· Refrigerated storage space, preferably a freezer, is essential.
· Raw meaty bones can be fed frozen just like ice cream. Some pets eat the frozen article, others wait for it to thaw.
· Small carcasses, for example rats, mice and small birds, can be fed frozen and complete with entrails. Larger carcasses should have the entrails removed before freezing.
· Take care that pets do not fight over their food.
· Protect children by ensuring that they do not disturb feeding pets.
· Feeding bowls are unnecessary — the food will be dragged across the floor — so feed pets outside by preference, or on an easily cleaned floor.
· Ferrets are small carnivores which can be fed in the same way as cats.
For an expanded description of dietary requirements, including the potential hazards, please consult the book Raw Meaty Bones: Promote Health. Further information is available and the book may be ordered from www.rawmeatybones.com
IMPORTANT: Note that individual animals and circumstances may vary. You may need to discuss your pet’s needs with your veterinarian.
Diet Questions and Answers from Tom Lonsdale (www.rawmeatybones.com)
'The truth is rarely pure, and never simple' said Oscar Wilde. For this and a host of medico-ethical reasons pet health-care issues are best overseen by a local veterinarian who knows and understands the need for a biologically appropriate diet and healthy mouth. Owners who wish to seek a second opinion are advised to first discuss their concerns with their veterinarian. Veterinarians are generally pleased to assist in the arrangement of a second opinion which may lead to better health-care. Veterinarians, wishing to discuss medical or professional issues, are welcome to contact Tom. Please note that Tom is unable to correspond directly with pet owners.
Marrow bones
Q. Are marrow bones safe? My butcher saws them lengthwise so that my dog can get at the marrow.
A. There is little nutrient value in hard, dense marrow bones. And besides, chewing on the bones is likely to break teeth. This is especially so when the bones are sawn lengthwise - they act as a lever to split the upper carnassial tooth (three pointed tooth) which then becomes infected and painful.
Conventional wisdom:
Large bones are permissible/good for dogs - because they are too big and hard to be eaten.
Rebuttal:
Wolves, lions and other carnivores leave the long marrow bones. It's only hyenas that have the specialised jaws to deal with such bones.
Q. Is it OK to give my dog/cat cooked bones?
A. Lots of people get away with this risky activity. However, the nutrient value of cooked bones is much less than raw bones. Cooked bones are harder to digest and give rise to increased risk of obstruction or penetration of the bowel.
Q. How much should I feed my pet?
A. The answer depends on many factors. Please check out the 'Expanded diet guide'. Once you have a grasp of the factors listed you will likely feel confident about how much to feed your pet.
Q. How often should I feed my pet.
A. Adult dogs, cats and ferrets should be fed daily. Although a day or two of fasting each week mimics life in the wild and probably provides benefit - on condition that more food is fed on the other days of the week.
Conventional wisdom:
Dry food can be made permanently available.
Rebuttal:
Dry food is hazardous for dogs, cats and ferrets and should not (except in emergency) be fed.
Fruit
Q. My pet won't eat fruit. Does it matter?
A. Providing the rest of the diet closely mimics that in the wild the absence of fruit in the diet doesn’t matter.
Q. My pet dog/cat/ferret likes to eat lots of raw, ripe fruit. Is that OK?
A. Lots of raw fruit appears to do no harm and may be beneficial on condition that the rest of the diet is adequate.
Q. What's the best way to feed fruit?
A. Cooked or raw, straight from the plate or put through the kitchen mixer.
Vegetables
Q. My pet won't eat vegetables. Does it matter?
A. Providing the rest of the diet closely mimics that consumed in the wild the absence of vegetables in the diet does not matter.
Q. My pet dog/cat/ferret likes to eat lots of vegetables. Is that OK?
A. Lots of vegetables appears to do no harm and may be beneficial on condition that the rest of the diet is adequate.
Q. What's the best way to feed vegetables?
A. Cooked or raw, straight from the plate or pureed in the kitchen mixer.
Peelings
Q. Are fruit and vegetable peelings safe for my pet?
A. Yes, if that peel would be safe/nutritious for humans - for example potato, apple and pear peelings and the outer leaves of lettuce and cabbage. No, if that peel would be unsuitable as food for humans - for instance melon and banana peel and the outer leaves of artichokes. Grains
Q. Are grains good for my pet?
A. In moderation some cooked grains, for instance bread or porridge is OK for pets.
Q. Sometimes I have lots of left over bread or potatoes which I would like to feed to my pet.
A. Large quantities of bread or potatoes, fed at one time tend to be indigestible and thus give rise to intestinal complications, including bloat.
Conventional wisdom:
Dry 'complete and balanced' grain based diets are good for cats, dogs and ferrets.
Rebuttal:
Most of the diseases of modern pets can, either wholly or in part, be attributed to a grain based diet.
Bacteria
Q. I am worried that my pet may contract bacteria from eating raw meat.
A. Pets can contract bacteria from eating raw meat, especially chicken, but this tends to be a mild or rare occurrence.
Q. I am worried that my family may contract bacteria from our pet if it is fed raw food.
A. Pets can be a source of bacterial infection. However, infections in humans, when traceable, often show poultry meat, eggs, milk and processed foods (including restaurant meals) to be the source of infection.
Q. What should I do to limit the chance of me or my family contracting bacteria from our pet?
A. Maintain good hygiene.
Wash utensils thoroughly in hot soapy water.
Wash hands thoroughly after feeding your pet.
Discourage pets from licking hands and face of people, especially young children.
Pick up faecal deposits regularly.
Restrict/control flies.
Q. My pet developed diarrhoea and vomiting after being fed raw chicken from the grocery store. Could it be due to a bacterial infection?
A. Yes. Bacteria, for instance Salmonella, Campylobacter or E.coli, could be responsible. Your veterinarian can diagnose and treat these infections.
Worms
Q. Will feeding raw food to our pets increase the likelihood of my family catching worms from our pets?
A. There should be no increase in the likelihood of catching worms on condition that the food is purchased from a reputable outlet or is food passed as fit for human consumption.
Q. I heard that hydatid tapeworms can be a problem.
A. In some areas where hydatid tapeworms occur dogs fed on sheep/kangaroo/hare or other carcasses can become infected. Dogs infected with the tapeworm are a source of infection for humans and other animals. Consult your veterinarian if you have reason to believe that your dog may have eaten a carcass infected with hydatid tapeworm.
Q. My puppy passed spaghetti like worms. Could these have come from the raw meat I gave it?
A. These worms probably came from the puppy's mother, not from the diet. The eggs do pose a hazard for people. Accordingly puppies should be discouraged from licking people and faecal material should be disposed of safely.
Hazards
Q. My veterinarian says feeding raw food is hazardous and should not be practised.
A. Some risks, for instance hydatid tapeworm, and bacterial infection, do exist. However, a small risk should not be allowed to overshadow substantial benefits. Hydatid tapeworm and bacterial contamination are issues which affect the supply of human food. But there is no large controversy surrounding those issues. Why raise spurious or hypothetical issues? Despite the hazards, real or imaginary, many veterinary authorities and pet food companies recommend the feeding of raw meaty bones. Presumably they consider the benefits outweigh the hazards.
Choking
Q. I heard of a dog choking on a raw bone.
A. Choking is a hazard for people and pets. Cutting raw meaty bones or carcasses into small pieces increases the hazard. Pets attempt to swallow the pieces without adequate chewing. Be sure to feed carcasses whole and raw meaty bones in large pieces.
HIV AIDS
Q. My friend has HIV AIDS and I am concerned about the risks posed by my pet which is fed a natural diet.
A. Your doctor is the best person to advise regarding the relative risks posed by animals, regardless or whether they be fed a natural or processed diet.
Vitamins
Q. I want to do the best for my pet and wonder what vitamins you recommend.
A. The vitamins in natural food and table scraps are all that your pet requires. Feeding supplementary, synthetic vitamins can do harm.
Minerals
Q. I want to do the best for my pet and wonder what minerals you recommend.
A. The minerals in natural food and table scraps are all that your pet requires. Feeding supplementary minerals can do harm.
Antioxidants
Q. The antioxidants in plants are good for us. Can I give my pet some antioxidants?
A. If your pet receives a good diet based on carcasses and raw meaty bones then his antioxidant levels should be optimum. Best to steer clear of 'magical' supplements designed to 'improve on nature' because, after a long evolutionary history, nature really does know best.
Table scraps
Q. My diet is not very healthy. Surely the leftover scraps cannot be good for my pet.
A. Let's keep things in perspective. A few scraps from an 'unhealthy' human diet will not be as harmful as a diet of processed pet food. But nevertheless it might be a good idea to improve your own diet whilst ensuring that your pet receives whole carcasses or raw meaty bones as the staple diet.
Chicken
Q. I am concerned that raw chicken may contain harmful Salmonella and Campylobacter. Is this true?
A. Yes, a high proportion of raw chicken is contaminated, regardless of the source of the chicken. Chicken for human consumption needs to be well cooked. When preparing raw chicken, whether for human or pet consumption, practise good hygiene.
Beef
Q. Are beef bones good for my pet?
A. Meaty tail bones and ribs are good for dogs. Brisket bones, whilst easy to chew, lack meat and should not form the bulk of the diet.
Lamb
Q. I can get lamb necks. Are they good for my dog?
A. Yes, lamb necks make a good meal for middle and large sized dogs.
Diet
Q. I want to feed my pet a 'complete and balanced' diet.
A. People living on wartime rations were found to suffer from an incomplete and unbalanced diet, they lacked sufficient fresh fruit, vegetables, meat and milk - hence the preoccupation with the term 'complete and balanced'. Carnivore needs are different to human dietary needs. The term 'complete and balanced' has been imported into discussions on animal diets, but tends to be seriously misused - instead of food types the chemical constituents, carbohydrates, proteins, etc are emphasised. Best to treat the commercially inspired notion 'complete and balanced' with suspicion and ensure that your pet is fed according to nature's teaching - whole carcasses of raw meaty bones.
Teeth
Q. My dog does not much resemble a wolf. Why can it be expected to eat raw food?
A. Teeth and gums need to be kept clean and healthy. Eating raw food does that best. A dog's digestive system is ideally suited to a natural diet, regardless of the breed or appearance.
Bladder stones
Q. My dog suffers from bladder stones and cannot eat natural food.
A. Many factors affect the formation of bladder stones - most are poorly understood. But in broad terms dental, digestive and urinary tract health all have some bearing on the formation of stones. By keeping those systems healthy the chance of stones forming is thereby reduced. A natural diet is the chief contributor to dental, digestive and urinary tract good health. Some urinary tract stones, for instance urate calculi in Dalmatian dogs, are genetically determined, but nonetheless a healthy diet helps maintain overall good health.
Q. My cat suffers from bladder stones. What can be done?
A. Diet and dental health need to be optimum. It may be necessary to provide additional treatment. Please consult the articles FLUTD and Preventative dentistry.
Why change to a more natural diet?
Q. My previous pets all lived to a ripe old age on commercial food and my current pet dog and two cats seem fine. Why should I change their diet to more natural foodstuffs?
A. Are you sure that your previous pets were healthy? What were your vet bills like? Just how healthy are your current pets? Until we face the facts that our processed-food-fed-pets are not so healthy it is difficult to persuade ourselves that a natural diet could be better. First we must be honest with ourselves - fair treatment of our pets then follows, automatically.
Raw food suppliers
Q. Where can I get supplies of raw food for my pets?
A. First decide on a shopping list then decide who in your local area might either supply the items or advise where they can be found. The telephone book, your local butcher, corner store or pet shop may be a source of information. You may be a pioneer natural-food-feeder. If so, you could encourage would-be suppliers to visit this web site so that they may see what's entailed and the resultant benefits for all concerned.
Cost of food
Q. How much will the raw food cost?
A. Prices and availability vary from area to area. In Australia raw food costs about one-third the price of artificial foods. But food costs are not the only outlay. How much does it cost to visit the vet? How much does it cost in anguish, if not in money, to watch pets slowly get sick on an unnatural diet?
Dog poo
Q. My dog strains to pass his poo now that I feed him raw bones.
A. Yes, that's common and normal.
Q. My dog's poo turns white and hard after a couple of days in the sun.
A. Yes, that's to be expected because 'natural' dog poo is mostly powdered bone.
Q. My vet says my dog will become constipated if fed on raw bones.
A. Feed meaty raw bones in large pieces and he should be fine. Bones in small pieces, for instance chicken necks, or bones without much meat on them lead to firmer faeces and/or impaction of the bowel. (Chicken necks are good for small dogs and cat - but not large dogs, they tend to swallow chicken necks without sufficient prior chewing.)
Constipation
Q. How will I know if my dog/cat gets constipated?
A. If he or she strains without passing any poo then he/she may either be constipated or in the case of females may have a bladder irritation or blockage.
Q. What do I do it I suspect my pet is constipated?
A. Speak with your vet.
Bowel obstruction
Q. How will I know if my pet's bowel/digestive tract becomes obstructed?
A. Diagnosis is not always easy, even with the best equipment and training.
If you notice your pet to be off his food and listless then consult your vet. If your pet vomits, salivates profusely or seems in other ways to be 'unwell' then consult your vet.
Chocolate
Q. My dog likes chocolate. Is it safe to feed him a little now and then?
A. Chocolate in large quantities is toxic for pets. Best to avoid such treats. (Theobromine, a stimulant, is the major toxic ingredient.)
Onion
Q. I heard that onion should not be given to dogs.
A. That's right. Onions are toxic for dogs, whether cooked or raw. A few onions in left over stew or pizza topping should not create a major problem, but in general it's best to avoid giving onions to your dog.
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